Fiskebaren, Copenhagen

Much like New York’s, Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District (in Vesterbro) is one of the city’s hip-est areas and very much the place to be from dinner time onwards…

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

The area used to be home to Copenhagen’s meat industry businesses and still consists of three separate areas, referred to as the White, Grey and Brown “Meat City” for the dominant colour of their buildings.

In recent years, it has changed into a new creative cluster with a trendy nightlife and a broad range of high quality restaurants.

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Amongst them, Fiskebaren, an casual fish-focused restaurant nestled within the market building itself.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

With an informal atmosphere and quite rough interior with loads of second-hand décor elements, Fiskebaren is a modern-day ode to the meat halls of the past, but with much more refined food, the restaurant having a Bib Gourmand in Guide Michelin Nordic Cities 2015.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Whether you come in for just a few nibbles and a glass of wine or want to treat yourself to the full experience, there’s something for everyone on the seasonal & ingredient-led menu, with a strong focus on fish & seafood.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

We started with the Char tartare, rye emulsion, capers, dill and burnt onion.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

With tender, blushing fish, fresh dill cream, toast-y rye emulsion, sweet roasted & tangy pickled onions, it was a subtle Nordic twist on the traditional salmon tartar.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

And what a beauty!

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Savoy cabbage, new Danish onions, potato foam, horseradish & chives.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

An absolute textural masterpiece and my favourite dish, both that night and of our entire trip.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Mullet, baby corn, chanterelles and chicken skin.

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Perfectly cooked, crispy-skin fish, creamy corn & crispy chicken skin, all brought together by a rich, meaty chicken sauce, will always be a winner in my book!

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Blackberry, flaxseed macarons, fennel tops and white chocolate.

Another of those herbal-inspired creative desserts Danish restaurants excell at (even if this specific one wasn’t quite as good as Geist‘s…).

Fiskebaren, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Last but not least, Chocolate, cherry, hazelnut, cep ice cream.

Quite a divisive one: I loved the ice cream, the Mr. hated it…

What about you? Do you think there’d be mushroom in your heart for it?

Only one way to find out… Book a table here!

Kødbyens Fiskebar, Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 København

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Fiskebaren, Copenhagen

Copenhagen 3 Days Itinerary

Copenhagen is a beautiful city, with stunning architecture, even better interior design & some of the most interesting food I’ve ever had (can you tell I’m in love?).

… which makes planning a short trip there rather tricky, as there’s so much to do / see / eat but very little time to do so!

But difficult is not impossible, so if you’re heading to Copenhagen soon, this rather comprehensive 3-day itinerary of the very best of city should come in handy…

DAY 1:

9 AM: Pick up coffee & pastries from organic bakery Meyers Bageri (St. Kongensgade 461264 København K).

The bakery opens early in the morning, and is often crowded, which is no surprise considering how good everything is. The cinnamon rolls “kanelsnurrer”, made with Valrhona chocolate and the fragrant blueberry & cardamom rolls are especially worth the wait.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

As there is only room for a handful of people to seat, it’s best to haul away your loot to the nearby harbour for a spot of breakfast with a view!

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10 AM: Walk along the harbour to the world famous Little Mermaid statue.

3 days in Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Many people seem disappointed to find out how small she was, but I found her languing pose, face towards the sea in the hope of catching a glimpse of her beloved prince, very touching.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Walk back through the Kastellet, one of the best preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe that houses various military activities but mainly serves as a public park and a historic site.

12 PM: Stroll by picture-perfect Nyhavn.

What to do in 3 days in Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the harbour front, Copenhagen’s ‘New Harbour’ is lined by rows of brightly coloured houses and one of the city’s dreamiest area.

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1 PM: All this walking around, pointing at glorious buildings, super-well-dressed people and stunning design-ey interior in litterally every café you passed by probably left you ravenous… in which case, Papirøen (Trangravsvej 14, 7/8, 1436 København K) is the place to be!

What to do in 3 days in Copenhagen | Cake + WhiskyWhat to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky3 days in Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Run by The Association of Copenhagen Street Food, Papirøen is the city’s first and only genuine street food market and home to 35 food stalls, food trucks and containers.

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Pasta, pizza, burgers, sushi, all the (delicious) usual suspects are available, as well as some less common options, including Korean food, stuffed omelette, tacos and Moroccan stuffed bread.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Plus you get to enjoy your haul with a stunning view over the Opera house, the Royal Playhouse and the harbour of Copenhagen… Not a bad deal eh?

2 PM: Explore the wild side of Copenhagen in Christiana.

Also known as Freetown Christiania, it’s a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood with a unique status in that it is regulated by a special law, the Christiania Law of 1989.

The rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests and hard drugs but are otherwise very permissive, especially regarding cannabis consumption. Home to a mixed bunch, including social security recipients, pensioners, immigrants and clients from social institutions, arts are everywhere in Christiana and its impressive murals are one of the main attractions to its yearly half a million visitors.

4PM: Spend the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets of Christianshavn & Holmen.

What to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

With narrow cobbled streets, Michelin-starred restaurants and cosy cafes along the canal, Christianshavn is a much-desired area for Copenhageners to live. And it is easy to see why.

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Originally, it was laid out as an independent privileged merchant’s town with inspiration from Dutch cities and still carries a strong nautical atmosphere today.

8 PM: Dinner at Geist (Kongens Nytorv 8, 1050 København K).

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

With a creative build-your-own degustation menu, it’s the perfect place to experience New Nordic cuisine through rather out-there combination of flavours such as Geist’s signature ‘Turbot with fennel ravioli on gruyère’ or ‘Vanilla ice cream with blueberries and olives’ & of course, the restaurant trademark petit four: citrus cotton candy!

Read the full review here.

DAY 2:

9 AM: Start the day at Amalienborg Slot, the residence of the Danish royal family.

What to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky3 days in Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Consisting of four identical classical palace façades gathered around an octagonal courtyard, it was originally built for four different noble families but became the royal family’s residence after Christiansborg Palace burned in 1794.

10 AM: Pop by Frederiks Kirke.

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Directly inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, this colossal Evangelical Lutheran church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia and is the perfect example of Nordic church design (typically with no or short naves).

11 AM: See Rosenborg Slot.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606, Rosenborg castle is a great example of Christian IV’s many architectural projects.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Built in the Dutch Renaissance style typical of Danish buildings during this period, it now houses a museum exhibiting the Royal Collections, artifacts spanning a breadth of royal Danish culture, from the late 16th century to the 19th century, including the Crown Jewels, the Danish Crown Regalia and the Throne Chair of Denmark.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

The Rosenborg Castle Garden, the country’s oldest royal garden, is also well worth taking a look at.

1 PM: Smørrebrød lunch at Aamanns (Øster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 København Ø).

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

A modern deli and restaurant, Aamanns specialises in Danish open-face sandwiches or smørrebrød.

Smørrebrød typically consists of a piece of buttered rye bread, topped with Pålæg (toppings) of cured meat, fish or vegetables & Aamanns offers an extensive choice of traditional & new wave, creative versions to choose from, each prettier and more delicious than the last!

Read the full review here.

3 PM: Walk across the Botanical Garden.

Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + WhiskyWhat to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky

Covering an area of 10 hectares and containing more than 13,000 species, almost all of which have been collected in the wild, Copenhagen’s Botanical Garden is a part of the Natural History Museum of Denmark.

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It serves research, educational & recreational purposes & is particularly noted for its extensive complex of historical glasshouses dating from 1874.

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5 PM: Get hip in Vesterbro.

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The infamous red light district and former working-class area of Copenhagen is actually one of the most fashionable places in Copenhagen to shop, eat, drink and have a great night out.

Copenhagen in 3 days | Cake + Whisky

Lined up with fashionable and cozy cafes, including the stunning Mad & Kaffe (Sønder Blvd. 68, 1720 København V), it’s the ideal place for a spot of shopping.

Favourites of mine include Blomsterskuret (Værnedamsvej 3A, 1819 Frederiksberg C) for all things flowers and Dora (Værnedamsvej 6, 1619 København C) for homeware, but the fun’s mostly in popping in and out of stores, with maybe a lil’ coffee & cake break somewhere in the middle!

7PM: Drinks at Mikkeller (Victoriagade 8 B-C, 1655 København V).

Set up by gipsy-brewer Mikkel, Mikkeller Bar offers 15 taps from Mikkeller and the world’s best breweries, cheese, snacks and a specialized bottled selection.

8 PM: Dinner at Fiskebaren (Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 København).

Copenhagen in 3 days | Cake + Whisky

Located at the heart of the trendy Meatpacking District, Fiskebaren is all about the freshest fish & seafood served in an informal atmosphere with rough interiors and deliberate use of second hand décor.

Rewarded by a Bib Gourmand in Guide Michelin Nordic Cities 2015, the food there is, in complete New Nordic fashion, fresh, seasonal, creative & much more than the sum of each dish ingredients.

Full review coming soon.

DAY 3:

9 AM: Climb the Rundetårn.

What to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky What to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky

Originally built as an astronomical observatory, the Round Tower is famous for its equestrian staircase, a 7.5-turn helical corridor leading to the top, and for the fantastic views it affords over Copenhagen!

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On a sunny day, it’s absolutely breath-taking from up there!

10 AM: Reward your efforts with some chocolate milk & a spot of shopping!

With fantastic stores, ranging from small brands showrooms to gigantic department stores offering the best Nordic brands, the area around Strøget is any shopping-addict’s dream come true.

3-day Copenhagen itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Must-visit include Illum (Østergade 52, 1100 København K) is you’re after specific big-brand items and Notre Dame (Nørregade 7, 1165 København K) for all those home things you didn’t know you needed but will buy regardless!

Best shops in Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky 3-day Copenhagen itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Magasin du Nord (Kongens Nytorv 13, 1095 København K) has a very well-stocked food hall and the Lego Store (Vimmelskaftet 37, 1161 København K) is also well worth a look, if only for the incredible displays made entirely out of the brand’s signature plastic bricks.

1 PM: Hotdog at DOP (Købmagergade 50, 1119 København K).

Where to find Copenhagen's best hotdogs | Cake + Whisky

A trip to Copenhagen isn’t really complete until you have sausages in a bun, and if there are stands all around the city, none quite compares to DOP’s fabulous organic offering.

What to see, do & eat in Copehagen | Cake + Whisky

So good in fact that in 2010, the city guide Ibyen/Politiken awarded it Best Eatery ahead of among others a Michelin-starred restaurant…

2 PM: More shopping…

If you still have time on your hands (as well as room in your bags and money in your purse), there are always more stores worth taking a look at, one of my personal favourites being Posterland (Gothersgade 45, 1123 København K), an absolute poster-paradise with hundreds of references…

Have you ever been to Copenhagen? What’s top of your list of things to see/do/eat there?

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Copenhagen 3-day itinerary | Cake + Whisky

Copenhagen 3 Days Itinerary

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns

On our second day in Denmark, we had our hearts set on trying out the traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches, so we scouted the city in search of Copenhagen best Smørrebrød.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

Word on the street is that they’re to be found at Aamanns, a modern Danish open sandwich deli and restaurant.

So off to the western-most part of Copenhagen we trotted… to discover one of the prettiest restaurants I’ve ever set foot in!

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Miles away from your usual British ‘deli’, simply decorated yet refined and elegant, Aamanns is a textbook example of brilliant Nordic design.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

The natural, no-nonsense decor mirrors the restaurant’s philosophy of good, simple Danish cuisine perfectly.

If at night, the menu is more elaborate, at lunchtime, Aamanns is all about Smørrebrød, the traditional open sandwich on rye bread.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

Starting things off the traditional way with Fried herring with smoke, elderflower vinegar, smoked cheese, radishes and hay ash.

A modern take on the classic, this first taste of Smørrebrød highlighted Aamanns’ beautiful, malty sourdough rye bread perfectly.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

Cold smoked salmon and summer salad with dill, pickled cucumber, chives and wheat croutons was a more usual combination for our non-Nordic palates.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

A bit of a Nordic take on a lox & cream cheese bagel if you will, only far lighter and much more delicate than the New York original!

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

New potatoes with pepper mayonnaise, weeds, chives, leek ash and crisps.

With soft potatoes, crumbly rye bread, creamy mayo, crunchy pickled onion & crispy fried potato bits, the easy-to-overlook vegetarian option was an textural masterpiece, and also a very strong choice taste-wise (if you like celery, that is…).

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Last but not least, a much less vegetarian-friendly option: Beef Tartare with blackberries, tarragon emulsion, shallots and rye crumb.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

A little bit of a Franco-Nordic fusion, and a very successful one at that! And what a beauty!

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The same could be sayed about dessert, a Strawberry eclair with vanilla cream and strawberry granita.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

The chou itself was okay, but the vibrant granite and the light-as-air vanilla cream were what truly made the dish.

Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns | Cake + Whisky

… and made me struggle not to lick the plate clean!

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All finished off the Danish way with a few cups of excellent strong black coffee.

All in all, muck to loaf at Aamans, which explains its popularity with locals and visitors alike, so make sure you book ahead as it’d really be a shame for you to miss out on the best (Copenhagen) thing since sliced bread!

AamannsØster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 København

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Copenhagen best Smørrebrød at Aamanns

Geist, Copenhagen

One of the things I was most looking forward to trying in Copenhagen was the New Nordic cuisine the country has become famous for following the ‘Noma revolution’.

The trend has now extended far beyond Rene Redzepi acclaimed restaurant and many great little places have started focusing on slow, locally-sourced food & imaginative combinations of flavours.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

If you failed to secure a table at Noma, your next best option to experience this new way of gourmet thinking is Geist.

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Minutes away from the ever-crowded harbour, at the back of a quiet courtyard, lined with dark wood, low lighting and gorgeous vintage glasses, Geist is an absolute gem of a restaurant.

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It’s busy and intimate, elegant and cosy, trendy and relaxed.

A whole world of oxymores, that shouldn’t work and yet, somehow, do.

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The menu, a sort of ‘a la carte’ tasting menu, works much in the same way.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

And choosing proved much easier with a couple of cocktails at hand.

Front: Lemon in lemon in lemon, a refreshing combination of gin, lemon juice, orange blossom water and other citrusy bits).

Back: Mezcal sour, a Mexican-inspired, smokey take on a classic.

Both perfectly mixed, very creative and very much at the image of the food to come.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Starting with Grilled avocado with green almonds and curry.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Creamy avocado, crunchy green almonds & the exotic yet subtle taste of curry powder…

Such a simple combination, yet one I had never tried before but will not make the mistake of forgetting now that I have!

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Beautiful, wafer-thin Tartar of Norway lobster with yuzu and hibiscus.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Silver onions with tamari, ginger, lime and sesame.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Crunchy, Asian-inspired, slightly pickle-y, they made for the perfect bridge-dish between the light, fresh options that preceeded and the deeper, more savoury ones to come.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

The first of which was the very essence of surf & turf: Scallops and chicken wings with browned butter.

Sweet and soft atop crunchy & umami and finger-licking good!

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

The last savoury dish was a bit more of a traditional one: Carrots with young pigeon and mustard.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Perfectly cooked, game-y pigeon breast, topped with a honey-mustard sauce and served alongside some sweet pickled carrots and roasted legs as a little snack on the side.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Needless to say, those disappeared before I was even done taking pictures of the food!

…and the rest didn’t last long either, which is just as well as it allowed us to move onto the best part of the meal.

Now, it’s no secret that I’m rather partial to pudding, but Geist took things to a whole new level of sweets’ paradise with some madly brilliant dishes.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Salted wasabi cream toffee.

Unexpected, challenging, and very much the sort of dish that makes your brain work as much as your tastebuds.

At first, you get hit by the powerful, almost mustard-y taste of wasabi and you go ‘na-ah, this really wasn’t meant to be’. But the next second, the sweet, creamy, slightly salted caramel takes the lead and before you know it, you’re going back for more…

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

The same was also true for our second dessert, Vanilla ice cream with blueberries and black olives.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Even though this time, the experience sort of went backward; things start in a much less aggressive way with the familiar notes of vanilla, followed by the slight acidity of the blueberries and right at the end a subtle yet unmistakable richness of black olives.

A beautiful combination indeed.

Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

In true Danish fashion, we ended things up with coffee…

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… and some lemon cotton candy! Best petit four ever? I (and my inner 5-year-old) sure think so!

Absolutely wondaneful from the beginning ’til the end & definitely one for the Copenhagen bucket list!

Geist, Kongens Nytorv 8, 1050 København, Denmark

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Creative Danish Cuisine at Geist, Copenhagen | Cake + Whisky

Geist, Copenhagen