Restaurant Le 5, Saint Malo

01-06-2016 Local Black BookBrittany, fine dining, France, French, Le 5, recommendation, Restaurant, Restaurant Le 5, review, roof top, Saint Malo, St Malo, travelLeave a comment

As you might have gathered by now, food in Saint Malo was truly spectacular.

There was Michelin-stared lobsters, Michelin-worthy lemon tarts, and a loooooot of salted caramel.

But dinner at Restaurant Le 5 was truly quite magical.

Restaurant Le 5 is a bit of a locals’ secret and can only be accessed via the lobby of Hotel de France Le Chateaubriand (where we stayed).

Which is the perfect excuse to take a peak at the hotel’s charming Colonial-meets-retro lobby and stunning dining rooms on your way up!

And before you know it, you’re on top of the world (or at least, Saint Malo!)!

A classy nautical theme runs through the restaurant.

With stunning, 360° views to match!

And a seasonal, fine dining set menu worthy of the very best restaurants!

For starters, foie gras was the most popular option.

Served with pickled baby vegetables and red onion relish, it was the perfect balance of creamy, crunchy, tangy and sweet and absolutely dreamy!

Vegetarians weren’t quite as lucky though…

Despite their starter looking absolutely stunning, it was very much just a plate of tomatoes.

Ruby red, adorable on-the-vine cherry tomatoes, but tomatoes all the same.

For fish- & meat-eaters though, things kept getting better and better with mains.

Yellow pollack fillet, Espelette pepper, fennel panna cotta & yuzu foam

A vibrant fish dish and one of the best things I’ve eaten sofar this year.

All washed down with a few too many glasses of crisp Chardonnay…

And topped off with a choice-ditcher’s dream dessert: Café Gourmand.

AKA a cup of espresso, surrounded by a selection of mini-desserts.

Friand, canelé, macaron… we got all the classics and then some!

Panoramic views over Saint Malo, stunning food and even better pudding, Restaurant Le 5 has it all. Perfect for a romantic date or to celebrate something special!

More info + bookings here

Restaurant Le 5, 12, Place Chateaubriand, 35400 Saint-Malo, France

10 reasons to visit Saint Malo

28-05-2016 Local Black BookBordier Butter, Brittany, Brittany Tourism, city guide, Emerald Coast, France, guided tour, Kouign Amann, Maison du Beurre, Saint Malo, St Malo, travel1 Comment

1. Because Saint Malo is a city with a badass history!

Saint-Malo traces its origins to a monastic settlement founded early in the sixth century.

From then on, the city had a tradition of asserting its autonomy in dealings with the French authorities and even with the local Breton authorities.

Later on, St Malo mariners were the first Frenchmen to Canada, the Indies and round Cape Horn to the Pacific seaboard. Worldwide trade brought extravagant prosperity to the city.

The thing is that you can read the story in modern day Saint Malo’s townscape and a tour of the ‘cité corsaire’ is the perfect way to discover it all.

Emeraude Guides offers some brilliant tours of the city, both in English and French, as well as a variety of excursions, which you can book through their website. Alternatively you can get an audio guide from St Malo Tourism Office for 12€.

2. Because there’s something magical about being surrounded by the sea.

Being built on a rock reclaimed from the sea, water pretty much circles the whole of Saint Malo.

Which make for rather high maintenance (those walls are here for a reason!) but also for breathtaking views of the sea from… well, pretty much anywhere, really!

From the top of the bulwarks to almost every hotel room in town, the sea is everywhere in Saint Malo!

Including on the menu of many restaurants!

(PS. Did you catch my previous post, all about Malouin Michelin-starred chef Luc Morbihan’s top tips to cook lobster?)

3. Because Saint Malo is home to one of France’s most beautiful beaches.

Brittany is the region with the longest continuous coastlines in France and each stretch is more beautiful than the next.

Transparent, blue-green water (hence the ‘Emerald Coast’ nickname) and golden sand as far as the eye can see, Saint Malo truly is a little piece of beach-goer paradise!

4. Because the city is an absolute architectural dream.

Looking at the stone buildings and the pastel blue facades, one can hardly imagine that the historic walled city of Saint-Malo was almost totally destroyed by American shelling and bombing as well as British naval gunfire.

The city was carefully re-built according to original building designs from 1948 to 1960 and has since re-gained its original beauty.

5. Because people who like butter are always the best people.

And god knows Malouins do!

From the Bordier ‘Butter House‘ (yes! a store/museum focusing on all things butter!!), to many a food speciality and about a billion different kinds of butter biscuits, butter is EVERYWHERE in Saint Malo!

And there’s absolutely NOTHING wrong with that.

Oh, and the ‘Butter House‘ also happen to have the prettiest floor…

6. Because you haven’t truly lived until you tried Kouign Amann.

A butter-enriched, caramel crusted croissant and one of the very best pastries France has ever created (and I don’t say that lightly).

Forget about learning how to say it (‘coo-nee-ha-man’ in case you were wondering), just get your hands on one ASAP.

7. Because buckwheat is totally underrated!

Buckwheat is a plant cultivated for its grain-like seeds, and one of the healthiest food there is.

More importantly, it is the key ingredient to galettes, the traditional Brittany savoury pancakes.

It’s gluten and dairy free, and packed full of good-for-you stuff.

Ask for the ‘complete’ (with ham, cheese and egg) or have it with smoked salmon (my personal favourite) and a nice cup of cider.

As I they say, one galette a day keeps the doctor away!

8. Because SALTED CARAMEL!

Just stating the obvious there.

Onto crêpes, ice cream, baked into cakes and biscuits or even by the spoonful, there’s no wrong way to eat salted caramel, so make sure you make the best of the opportunity!

(Plus you’ll be supporting the local economy, so double brownie points for you!)

9. Because it’s small enough not to get lost but be enough so you won’t get bored.

From being a total beach bum, to touring Saint Malo’s many restaurants, bars and foodie spots, seing the final resting place of famous French writter Chateaubriand, going on excursion to nearby islands, learning about the city’s rich history and trying out all sorts of sporty activities (surf, segway… you name it!), Saint Malo is the perfect destination no matter what sort of holiday you’re after!

10. Because it’ll only be the beginning of your love story with Brittany!

Saint Malo is well worth a spot on your Travel To Do List, even if it’s only for a long weekend. Just a few days there felt like a proper break and I can’t recommend it enough!

Thanks to its great links with British ports, and with plenty more to see in the area (including the Mont Saint-Michel, a Unesco World Heritage site), Saint Malo is also an excellent home port if you’re planning to stay in Brittany for a little while longer.

And it’s all so pretty (and delicious), how could I blame you?

Can’t wait to start planning your trip to Saint Malo? Visit Brittany Tourism’s website for all info, including practical information, accomodation and more ideas of what to see and do!

Lobster Masterclass at L’Ecole du Goût, Saint Malo

27-05-2016 Local Black BookBordier Butter, Brittany, cooking, Ecole du Gout, French, French cooking, gastronomie, how to cook lobster, Le Saint Placide, lobster, Luc Morbihan, masterclass, Saint Malo4 Comments

I rarely buy (or cook) seafood.

Partly because they’re rather pricey little buggers, partly because they are quite a bit of work (and as you all know by now, I’m lazy).

And more importantly, because I’m totally lacking the technique to be sure that my investment (both in terms of time and money) will be worth it.

But this all changed after our first morning in Saint Malo and a (cooking) life-changing lobster masterclass with Luc Morbihan, chef of Michelin-stared restaurant Le Saint Placide.

Just arrived and already working!

No time to lose: there was water to be boiled, lobster to be cook…

And of course, cake to be baked!

One of my very favourites as it happened: Almond friands (See my gluten-free recipe if you fancy making some!)

Studded with beautiful, vibrant raspberries.

While the friands where baking, we moved onto the lobster.

Learning tips and tricks to pick the best of crustaceans…

In short, a good lobster is a live lobster, with long antennas, strong claws and a head that’s well attached to the body (with no gap inbetween).

We prepped the lobster before learning how to cook the tail and claws, as well as make a lobster jus.

The tail must be cooked in just-boiling water for no more than 5 minutes, before being cooled down and de-shelled.

The sure-fire way to get beautiful, still slightly transluscent lobster tail every time!

There were also some gorgeous wild asparagus.

A real treat as the season is so short!

Quickly pan-fried with a bit of butter…

Dressed by Luc’s expert hands.

And topped with the lightest, most divine saffron emulsion known to mankind.

A beautiful dish that highlighting Brittany’s best produce.

And a stellar example of Luc Morbihan’s cooking style: refined, yet simple, and absolutely divine.

So good in fact that I could hardly get myself to stop nibbling at it while we moved on to another recipe.

Lobster, bisque and herbs.

With lobster tail and claw, dressed with a reduced lobster bisque and a whole garden of micro-herbs (beetroot, nasturtium & brussel sprout flowers).

Delicious and pretty as a picture!

Last but not least, a more homely take on the mighty lobster (and possibly my favourite of the 3 dishes).

Lobster soup with pasta and red pepper.

So good in fact that I would happily have a bowl of this for dinner every night for the rest of my life.

All topped off with golden almond friands!

And a browse in the all-things-wine-and-liquor Aladdin’s Cave that is The Cave de l’Abbaye, where the cooking lessons take place…

If you’re planning a trip to Saint Malo, make sure you book a session at Ecole du Gout de Saint Malo for a brilliant introduction to the best produce Brittany has to offer!

You can either book online here or by calling +33 (0) 299201720. Information about the classes available here.

…or play it lazy and book a table at Luc Morbihan’s Michelin-stared restaurant, Le Saint Placide.

And whatever you do, make sure you pick up a few bottles of Breton cider at Cave de l’Abbaye!

Cave de l’Abbaye Saint Jean, 7 Rue des Cordiers, 35400 Saint-Malo, France

Sailing to Saint Malo with Brittany Ferries

26-05-2016 Local Black BookBretagne, Brittany, Brittany Ferries, ferry, France, sailing, Saint Malo, travel10 Comments

When it comes to travelling, some ways are more obvious than others.

For most people, travelling = plane. End of the story. And then we all complain about the crazy prices, the long queues at security, the lack of legroom, the dehydrated skin syndrom and the horrendous airplane food.

But you know what? There is a better way!

If you’re travelling to France or Spain, that is.

Let me introduce Brittany Ferries.

And zero crazy security queues in sight!

And before we knew it, we were boarding the Bretagne!

On board, you’ll find all sorts of entertainment.

There are 2 restaurants (La Baule, a self-service style restaurant and Les Abers, the Bretagne’s main A la Carte restaurant), bars and cafés aplenty, several stores and playing areas for children…

Even a cinema!

And nothing but the sea (and maybe a cheeky glass of wine…) as far as the eye can see!

And the food? I hear you say (glad to see you clearly have your priorities right!)

I have a theory when it comes to French restaurants. If the bread is good, the rest will be too.

And the bread onboard Brittany Ferries is very, very good indeed.

But the delicious crusty French bread & sea salt flaked butter was only the beginning…

For lunch & dinner, you can go down the (packed-full, fresh & vibrant) buffet route, or settle for the (very refined & mouthwatering) set menu.

We went for the latter.

Starting with Asian prawn broth with rice vermicelli, citrus and coconut.

Poached egg Piperade style.

Followed by equally excellent mains.

Cod with wild rice and red pepper coulis.

Gnocchi with wild mushroom and Parmesan emulsion.

Plateau de fromage (when -almost- in France…)

And finally, my favourite partd & the highlight of the meal: dessert.

Which came in the form of this stunning Lemon tart.

Crisp pastry, creamy, tangy lemon curd, all topped with a cloud-like meringue, it was a true work of art and almost too pretty to eat.

Almost.

Sailing to Saint Malo with Brittany Ferries | Cake + Whisky

One last look at the ocean and we retired to our cabin for a well-deserved rest.

The cabins themselves are fairly small, but extremely well designed so it really doesn’t feel cramped despite the limited space.

And the beds are much more confortable than you’d guess from looking at them!

A good night’s sleep makes a happy Sandra, and the first thing I saw when I woke up only made things better.

I’m telling you: there’s nothing quite as glorious as waking up surrounded by the ocean.

Except maybe for a hot cup of tea and a humongous breakfast!

And breakfasts aboard the Bretagne truly have nothing to envy to the world’s best hotels’!

Take you pick(s) of the buffet or go for a hot breakfast, cooked right in front of you y on of the ferry’s own chefs.

There are pastries for days…

And a cake selection Marie-Antoinette herself would be jealous of!

I’ve always said the very best days start with cake for breakfast, and that particular one was no exception…

But that is a story for another time (tomorrow).

In the meantime, I urge you to buy tickets to sail to beautiful Saint Malo with Brittany Ferries as soon as possible. The brilliant team, comfy cabins and glorious food will make it a journey to remember!

More info & tickets on Brittany Ferries’ website

Cake and Whisky

Life in London and other almost-grown-up tales

Menu

Brittany

Restaurant Le 5, Saint Malo

10 reasons to visit Saint Malo

Lobster Masterclass at L’Ecole du Goût, Saint Malo

Sailing to Saint Malo with Brittany Ferries